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Cappadocia Walky-Talky Tour (2 days)

Introduction

This is a 2-day tour which takes you on spectacular walks as well as to the best of the sights in central Cappadocia. The walks are suitable for countryside lovers and experienced hikers alike.

Day 1

Red Valley Walk

Start the day with a walk in Red Valley, famous for its rockscapes, local culture and historical sights. In Byzantine times, monks lived in these valleys and we shall visit some hidden churches. Today local people grow their crops in the fertile volcanic soil, and use the traditional water depots carved into the rocks that have existed for centuries. Depending on the season, you may see local people plowing their gardens or harvesting their crops; fruit such as apricots and grapes, vegetables such as tomatoes and pumpkins, and nuts such as almonds and walnuts. This walk normally takes 2 - 3 hours.

Cavusin Castle

The village of Cavusin (pronounced 'cha-voo-sheen') is the location of a spectacular rock castle that once housed everyone in the village. If you climb up you can see the ruins of Saint John the Baptists, a very large Byzantine church. Walk around the castle and visit some of the homes that were lived in until recently, and see the local fairy chimneys.

Goreme Open Air Museum

The world's most important Byzantine cave churches are found in these once remote valleys where monks and nuns pursued monastic life from the 3rd century on. Saint Basil, one of the three Cappadocian Fathers of the Church and Bishop of Caesarea (Kayseri) who first formulated the rules for monastic life later adapted in the west by Saint Benedict, if not familiar with the place himself, directly influenced the lifestyle of the monastic orders in these valleys. Here you can see the best preserved in-situ Byzantine cave wall paintings and frescos from the Iconoclastic period through to the end of Seljuk rule. Icons with scenes from the Old Testament and the New Testament above portraits of Church Fathers and saints depict the structure of the Byzantine universe. The best examples, the Dark Church and the Buckle Church, should not be missed.

Pashabagi

Pashabagi means 'The Pasha's Vineyard', a name it received after the Byzantine Greek population left the region. In Seljuk and Ottoman times, it was called 'Papaz'in Bagi' or 'The Monk's Vineyard' because Christian hermits chose to locate hermit cells and churches in these three-headed pinnacles symbolic of the Holy Trinity. Perhaps such symbolism helped these monks develop a greater understanding of God. This peaceful, attractive valley is famous for its three-headed fairy chimneys, and it's possible to see all the stages in the formation of fairy chimneys at this spot. The vineyards surrounding these natural wonders are still cultivated by locals (you can taste the grapes from September on), and trees such as apricot, apple, pear, quince, cherry, mulberry and walnut are plentiful.

Devrent Valley

Devrent Valley, also known as 'Imagination Valley', is the most surreal-looking landscape. This is one part of Cappadocia that really makes me feel I am on a different planet. Thousands of years of wind, rain and extreme temperature changes have worn the beautifully colored rocks into strange and wonderful animal and human shapes that make you think a modern sculptor has been living in the valley. You are wrong! You have just been introduced to the work of nature's greatest artist, Erosion.

Avanos (pottery, ceramics, tiles)

The red, iron-ore bearing clay deposited by the longest river in Turkey, The Kizilirmak, or 'Red River', known to classical scholars as The Halys, has been used to make pottery in Avanos for thousands of years. During the second millennium BCE, Avanos was inhabited by Assyrian traders, and it was later taken over by the Hittites, who called the river the 'Marassantiya'. Some of the techniques and designs used by potters today date back to this period. At one time every house had a potters wheel, and no family would give their daughter in marriage if the groom could not make pots! Today, the best of the ceramics and tiles on sale in Istanbul and other major cities are made here. You can watch potters spinning their traditional kick-wheels with their feet, and even try throwing a pot yourself.

Day 2

Mustafapasha

On the second day we start at this traditional local town which remained predominantly Christian throughout the Seljuk and early Ottoman periods, although the Muslim population increased from then on. The Byzantine Greek population in the area kept alive their language over the centuries and even developed their own unique dialect. Sinasos, as Mustafapasha used to be known, became wealthy by trading with Istanbul, and some splendid old stone Greek houses rich in decoratively carved symbols are not to be missed. It's still possible to walk into some buildings which have the original paintings on the walls, and the town is home to the remains of the largest concentration of modern churches in the region. The Byzantine Greeks left the village during the exchange of populations agreed in the Treaty of Lausanne, and the incoming Turks took over their houses.

While here, take a stroll through the narrow streets of this old town and see traditional Turkish rural life. Don't miss the beautiful ornamentation at the entrance of the 19th century Church of Constantine and Helena in the town centre, one of the biggest in the region. The cave church with the most modern icons, dedicated to Saint Basil, is also found here.

Underground Cities

Although all towns and villages in Cappadocia once had safe and secure secret rooms dug out of the soft tufa (tuff) rock, the underground cities of Kaymakli, the 'Land of Cream', and Derinkuyu, 'Deep Well', are intrinsically different because their size, scale, and evidence of underground city planning. Up to 50 meters deep and 3 kilometers wide, as many as 5,000 people were able to hide safely underground out of site of the enemy, with their store of food that could last for months if necessary.

Life (and death) could continue relatively normally in these well-ventilated cities lit by linseed-oil lamps, which had their own water supply, stockpiled food, kitchens, toilets, churches and even graveyards safe behind their gigantic circular mill-stone doors which could only be opened from the inside. The people could even cook food safely, as multiple chimneys dispersed the smoke imperceptibly so their presence would not be discovered by the enemy.

When were the underground cities 'built'? Nobody knows, but the first mention of them is in Xenophon's 'Anabasis' or 'account of his military expedition' carried out between 401 BCE and 399 BCE. He reported that 'the houses were underground structures with an aperture like the mouth of a well by which to enter, but they were broad and spacious below. The entrance for the beasts of burden was dug out, but the human occupants descended by a ladder. In these dwellings were to be found goats and sheep and cattle, and cocks and hens, with their various progeny. The flocks and herds were all reared under cover upon green food. There were stores within of wheat and barley and vegetables, and wine made from barley in great big bowls. The grains of barley malt lay floating in the beverage up to the lip of the vessel, and reeds lay in them, some longer, some shorter, without joints; when you were thirsty you must take one of these into your mouth, and suck. The beverage without a mixture of water was very strong, and of a delicious flavor to certain palates, but the taste must be acquired.' Xenophon also describes the wonderful hospitality offered to foreigners, a tradition that still exists in the region today and an aspect of my culture that I'm very proud of.

Pigeon Valley

The viewpoint over this awesome valley, named for the number of dovecotes carved out of the rocks, affords a spectacular view of old abandoned cave homes and old Greek houses of Uchisar. Villagers still keep pigeons for their guano, the best fertilizer for the local tufaceous soil. Pigeon guano is different from other natural fertilizers because it does not encourage weeds.

Uchisar Castle Rockscape

This tall rock, the highest point of the Goreme region, is a 25-floor beehive of cave rooms forming an underground-type city reaching into the sky. It was used as a citadel during Roman, Byzantine and Seljuk times, but more recently in the Ottoman period the upper rooms were converted into dovecotes, the guano being essential for the fertilization of the region's phosphorus-free land. The other old houses built around this fortress were used as homes until 20 years ago when modern style houses with plumbing were built in the village. The view of the Cappadocian countryside from the top is just brilliant.

Esentepe Panorama

This is the best panoramic viewpoint from which to see the complete view of Goreme valley and Goreme village: fairy chimneys, rock formations and cave houses. Goreme means 'can't see', but this is the one place where you can 'see' it all! The village is full of fairy chimneys, some of which have been converted into homes by cutting caves out of the soft volcanic rock. If you are interested, it may be possible to visit a local family's cave home and see the inside of one of these fascinating houses.

Love Valley

This special valley, not far from the main road, is missed by many visitors. You will love walking in this beautiful valley with its awesome rock formations. The trek takes you through local gardens of vines, quinces and pears, natural and man-made bee hives in the rocks, and through flood tunnels at the side of the valley. The green and fertile valleys contrast magnificently with the steep, colorful tufa rock valley sides - this is Cappadocia at its natural best. At the end of the walk you will arrive in an area of bare rock pinnacles from which the valley gets its name.

For All Your Cappadocia Tours Contact Us

All our guides are members of TUREB (Federation of Turkish Tourist Guide Associations), which is affiliated to WFTGA (World Federation of Tourist Guide Associations).

All guiding services are brought to you by Honeycomb Tours, Adnan's own travel agency based in Cappadocia, a TURSAB member (Association of Turkish Travel Agencies), License Number 5361.